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Thursday, 18 December 2008

  • Home Sweet Home

    My dancing shoes are packed between my sand-stained sundress and souveniers.  There`s an empty bottle of sunscreen and travel-sized toothpaste in the garbage basket of the hotel room and the colorful pesos I´ve become accustomed to will soon be exchanged for American greens.  I´m back in Veracruz, where the adventure began.  Mandi flew in from Wisconsin today and she, Sarah and I spent one last day at the beach.  Tomorrow morning I hop a bus to Mexico City and fly out around 5pm.  The trip has come full circle. 

     

    By leaps and bounds, my most memorable and authentic experience in Mexico has been time spent with Felipe`s family in their pueblo, Santiago, Tamazola.  Before a tough goodbye on Monday morning, I spent another week with the Gracidas.  Erika left for the states, and I arrived in Tamazola just in time for the second biggest festival of the year, Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe, on December 11-12.  In celebration, Felipe`s brother and sister, Carmela and José, along with dozens of young adults and teens from the town, ran tag-team/marathon-style from Huahuapan to Tamazola, a 3 hour voyage by car.  We cheered them on as they entered town carrying torches, flags and a banner of the Virgin of Guadalupe.  Then we marched alongside the whole village to the church on the top of the hill for an evening vigil.  After the service the whole town shared pozole, a famous chicken broth based corn soup, and carnival-style vendors were selling all my favorite foods: escites, fresh fruits with limón y chile, quesadillas de queso, atole, churros and tacos.  That night, Felipe brought me to the town square where there was a big, outdoor dance.  We smiled and bounced to traditional Durangense for hours.  I was so content being there with him that I didn´t realize until the next day that I had been the only guerra girl there.  Felipe just kept saying it was the best dance of his life.  And I couldn´t have agreed more.

     

    The next morning I went to mass with Felipe`s sisters and neice.  Once again we climbed up to the chapel on the hill, overlooking the deep, dry valleys.  When I left after my first visit to Tamazola, everyone assured me that upon my return in December, there would be no more work – that the harvesting and corn shucking, body aching days of fieldwork would be over.  They were wrong.  We spent 3 full days building a corral, by hand, around all of their land so that next year the cows can roam freely and fatten more easily.  Once again, I was blown away by their craftiness, strength and talent.  Felipe and his brothers chopped down heavy trees and skinned them with their machetes.  Then we dug deep holes into the rocky soil with our bare hands and somehow jimmied barbed wire between the sturdy, make-shift posts.  Each day I cam away with new scrapes and scratches, but being with Felipe in his element was wonderful…and hauling logs up and down the mountain cliffs was good exercise, at least.

     

    On Sunday morning we slept in until 8 and I woke up with the painful realization of just how much I was going to miss the routine of farm life (coffee just tastes better at 5am over a campfire), commraderie of a big family, and, above all, Felipe.  Later that morning, he took me to see the house he has been building.  Its unfinished and currently home to the family`s chickens, but its got definite potential.  On the way home we passed Tamazola´s brand new hospital and a thought caught me by surprise…I can honestly see myself living here for an extended period of time.  

     

    Later that afternoon the whole family piled in the back of the red pick-up and we went to picnic in the park.  We played volleyball and soccer until drenched in sweat and surrendered into the shade where we ate fresh fruit and tostadas.  After lunch, a huge snake decided to visit our camp, but the kids chased it away and Felipe killed it with a rock.  I guess it was poisonous.  It certainly added another element of excitement to the afternoon.  The kids had brought homemade piñatas, so Felipe and his brother tied them to a tree and with each whack, laughter and shouting filled the mountain air.

     

    I wanted the day to last forever, but as dad always says, all good things must come to an end.  As much as I miss my family and as excited as I am to start a new job and adult life, I didn´t want to leave Tamazola.  However, now that I am packed and ready to go, it seems as though the flight just can´t depart soon enough.  I need to hug them.  I want to feel like its Christmastime.  Not so much looking forward to the subzero temperatures that accompany it, but I´ll do my best to smuggle home a few pockets full of sunshine.

  • Scorpions and Rectal Thermometers…my experience at the Cruz Roja in Oaxaca, MX

    Apart from a celebratory quest for adventure, one of the more practical reasons I came to Mexico was to learn medical Spanish.  With the help of my language school in Oaxaca, I was able to arrange an eye-opening, hands-on experience in the Red Cross emergency department.  The first night we removed a sewing needle from a punctured hand, sewed dismantled fingers back into place, administered various injections, reset a disjointed shoulder, placed dozens of stitches and juggled 3 car accidents and 2 attacks – a normal night in the ER under abnormal circumstances…

     

    My heart ached at the lack of resources available to patients and staff at the Red Cross.  I found the doctors, nurses, paramedics and medical students to be well-trained and efficient, but due to the severe lack of resources, their creativity and resourcefulness is challenged by the hour.  For example, while I use a dozen pair of plastic gloves each shift, they have a limited supply that are washed and reused.  Although yellowed with age and iodine, everyone maintained sterile technique.  I learned you can go a long way with a little if need be. 

     

    The Red Cross is not governmentally funded.  Each clinic, hospital or emergency department is purely funded by private donations and taxes within its perspective community.  Therefore, only 1 doctor and 1 nurse is scheduled for a single shift.  However, they act more as facilitators than as care providers.  ´Who takes care of the patients´, you may ask?  Students.  As a student nurse, I was terrified to have complete responsibility for my patients, but medical students here seem confident and capable.  Nursing school is 4 years and med school is 7.  Each require an additional one year social service, which is comparable to a residency.  I met some incredibly hard working, talented, intelligent young men and women, but the person who stands out the most is enfermero Jose.  His story begs to be told…

     

    Jose joined the Mexican military when he was 16 years old.  On a convoy to a neighboring town, the vehicle he was in crashed and immediately killed 17 of the 20 people in the tank.  The other 3, including Jose, were seriously injured and his two fellow soldiers died a month later from complications.  Jose`s family thought that he too, had not survived the accident.  However, he was being cared for at the military hospital.  A young, beautiful nurse took special interest to her young patient.  Because the military hospital had little money and insufficient supplies, she would bring him food and changes of clothing.  Although Jose was immobile for almost a year, with therapy and special TLC from his personal nurse, he was able to recover.  When discharged from the hospital, he was still not strong enough to move back home with his parents, so his nurse took him into her apartment and continued to provide for him and nurse him back to health.  As he tells the story, they were destined to fall in love.  And did.  When he was almost fully recovered, he moved back to his pueblo to find work. Unfortunately, there was no work there for her, so they were separated for about a year, talking on the phone each night, determined to be together again someday.  One night, Jose received a call from the military hospital saying his girlfriend had been in an accident and suffered grave injuries.  Jose immediately made the 4 hour drive to the base, just in time to hold her in his arms as she passed away.  With tears in his eyes, he told me that this is why he chose nursing.  `To honor her and share her compassion with my patients.`  Jose has been practicing nursing now for over 20 years.  And he is a great nurse…patient, compassionate, quick-thinking and willing to go the extra mile.  He is currently studying for his masters in Healthcare Administration and works another job at a private hospital ´to pay the bills.´  He pretty much works without pay at the Red Cross.  It was such an honor to be his apprentice.

     

    Each night we worked together, he gave me a memento.  Two gifts stand out in particular.  First, he gave me a mercury rectal thermometer because, quote, ¨It is in degrees farenheight!  You use farenheight in the states!¨  The second gift needs a little background.  We had one eerily slow night in the ER – only about 5 cases during a 10 hour shift, 3 of which were scorpion stings.  One was a 4-year-old boy who will forever have a fear of needles and blue-eyed nurses (I had to give him a shot in the butt that he said hurt more than the sting itself).  Anyhow, his aunt brought the culprit into the ER for the doctor to inspect and after the family went home, all the paramedics, firefighters, med students and doctors were playing with this live scorpion.  I don´t remember who, but someone had the brilliant idea to give it to me as a gift.  Jose said, ¨Oh, yeah!  It will be your memento from Oaxaca!  You can name it Cruz Roja!!!¨  I made some joke about immigration not being too happy with my new little friend and that´s when someone suggested I buy liquid amber and make it into a necklace or a pendent.  After an hour of hopelessly insisting there must be a better use for this live little critter, I accepted their oh-so-thoughtful gift.  So, I walked home that night with a baby food jar full of live scorpion in my scrubs pocket.  Never a dull moment. 

Wednesday, 17 December 2008

  • A Dozen Little Things of Life and Love

    Thanks to everyone who has kept up with my Mexican adventures.  Your responses and emails are much appreciated and with each one, I´m more and more ready to come home.  I still need to document my experience at the Cruz Roja in Oaxaca as well as my second visit with Felipe`s family in Santiago Tamazola, but before too much more time slips away, I´d like to post my thoughts from December 15, 2008...
     
    I am 2 hours into my 7 hour layover on the last leg of my voyage to Veracruz.  With a 3 hour taxi ride behind me, I´ve had plenty of time to reflect on the past 13 weeks.  After life experiences like this, people usually ask themselves, ¨How have I changed?¨  Perhaps it is too soon to say, but I honestly think I am the same Kari - a little wiser, more patient, confident, more fluent in Spanish, freckled and sunkissed, but generally the same girl who left Minnesota in September.  The past 3 months, however, have reinforced a few valuable reminders about our precious existence in this world.
     
    1.  Although precious, our existence is not timeless.  I vow to make myself useful in this world, and to cherish the moments I have.  I´ve learned that work is important, and so is play.  There is no value in keeping life´s experiences to yourself.  Like good food, its meant to be enjoyed and shared.
     
    2.  Kindness and compassion should guide us.  Clearly, pouring out one`s love risks becoming vulnerable, but when that love comes from God, it is infinitely replaced and grows stronger with each dose poured out.
     
    3.  About vulnerability, if you are confident in yourself and are able to live with a clean conscience, the beauty of loving someone is worth the potential pain.  Of course, a solid network of trustworthy family and friends helps, but, like anything worthwhile, it takes work to build a web of support.
     
    4.  Everyone smiles in the same language.  The spoken word is facinating and the ability to communicate with Mexicans has proven priceless, but smiles and laughter are universal.  It is yet another reason we need not be afraid of people who are different from us.
     
    5.  Human hands are amazing and human labor, of all sorts, deserves respect and recognition.  
     
    6.  Music makes the world go round.  As Erika reflected so beautifully, the thread of music  wove itself so deeply throughout our journey.  It has been the unifier, the friend-maker, the mood-lifter, the cultural breakthrough, the tear-jerker, the bonding agent and the theme of my trip with the Wildfowers.  I vow to start guitar lessons again and to use my body to dance.
     
    7.  Perhaps true love takes time.  Love at first sight is a nice idea, and I´m not ruling it out.  I believe in energy and chemistry between people, but I think you can also learn to love someone.  The following confession is quite personal, coming from a girl who pad locked her diary until she was 15.  Truth is, I don`t even remember first meeting Felipe, but after spending so much time with him and his family - both here and in Virginia, I have become quite smitten.  He is more charismatic, attractive, affectionate and wonderful each time I see him...and now, with distance, immigration laws and cultural challenges, only time will tell.
     
    8.  With all this talk of love, it must be said that not everyone is to be trusted.  Some people are just out to hurt others and it is certain that each of us will be hurt at one point or another.  This is no reason not to love.  My theory is to be cautious but cordial.  I`ve found that if you treat others as though you see the best in them, the outcome is (generally) pleasant.
     
    9.  Wildflowers don´t care where they grow.  As tested time and again these past few months, I´ve discovered that I can make myself feel comfortable just about anywhere.  (It helps that I have mom`s Snoozy Susie genes.)  While there really is ¨no place like home,¨ comfort is about mind over matter.
     
    10.  Family Rules and Women Rock!  And above all, sisters are da bomb!  ( :  To me, Jen and Kels are the most precious people in the world.  Despite the heat, I get goosebumps and butterflies just thinking about spending time with them again.  I am so grateful for all the women in my life who may as well be sisters by spirit.  I am so proud of each of you and grateful for your impact on the world.
     
    11.  Create meaning in life.  At the last hotel we stayed at in Oaxaca, Erika and I met a Shaman from Spain who told us to make a list of 50 concrete life goals and another list of our top 10 values in life.  He advised us to revisit the lists often and meditate on how we are working towards our goals and demonstrating our values in everyday life.
     
    12.  In the simple words of John Prine, its a big ol´ goofy world.  Almost nothing in life goes as planned, especially in Mexico.  And while we can´t just float along like sea kelp, I´ve learned that it is better to set goals than make plans.  If we are able to laugh at ourselves and be flexible and patient with others, this big ol´ goofy world is bound to delight us.
     
    In light and love,
    Kari
  • A Rural Adventure

    Before leaving San Augustine, we were determined to seek out the Zapotec Indian family of some farmworkers in Virginia.  Erika brought the family´s phone number from our good friend Juana Jose, a farmworker and promotora from the program I worked for in Virginia these past 2 summers.  The phone call wouldn´t go through, so we were iffy about going out on our own to look for them, but decided "What the heck, we've already come this far and will regret it if we don't try."  So that's how we ended up on the edge of the highway in the middle of nowhere, waiting for pickup truck that makes a run up to the village of Santo Domingo every hour, watching the chickens peck at old fruit rinds and dogs digging out a cool spot in the shady dirt patches.

    Finally the driver came and we loaded up, still unsure of how our luck would turn out.  The treck was a forty minute ride on a dirt road into the interior, with mountains and rivers all around us, but very dusty.  Erika, in her sweet and friendly manner, started talking to the driver, who was from the town we were headed to.  Turns out that he had worked in Virginia as a farmworker two years ago.  He said "Yeah, I worked for Six L's"  which is the company Erika, Nicole, Claire and I work the most with!  It was such a ´small world´ experience.  Here we were in the "Middle of Nowhere, Mexico" having a conversation with an Indian pick-up driver about all the people we knew in common in Virginia.

    The town of Santo Domingo is definitely off the beaten track.  So much so that everyone blatantly stared at us, some children pointed, and most spoke their indigenous language of Zapoteco.  Our driver directed us to the phone call house, where since most people don`´t have phones in rural Mexico, they send and receive calls there.  The lady announced over the town loudspeaker that Litzy Jose Cruz had visitors, and from there all we could do was wait and hope for the best.  It wasn't more than ten minutes before Erika recognized Litzy walking towards us.
     
    She received us with a huge, worried hug, and told us that we had just caught her since she had been at the local market that day selling clothes and was just about to head back to their ranch, which was up the mountain.  She loaded us in her pick up truck, Erika and I in front, and poor Benny in the back with Litzy's very drunk husband, who she had to round up before we could head back.  We drove along the pot-holed dirt road, at one point driving THROUGH A RIVER speckled with naked children bathing.  She had a bobble-headed moose ornament on the dash, missing part of it's face, and several all-too-familiar virgins and religious mementos hanging from the rearview mirror, which were all bouncing around vigorously as we climbed up the hill.  It was so cool to have her point out many little houses along the way and tell us "That's Jesus Ambrosio's house, that's Alfreda Ruiz's house, that's Veronica Diaz's house" because these are all people Erika works with and has known for years in Virginia.  To be able to see their actual homes and true life in Mexico was just mind-blowing.  I felt so privileged to have seen both sides of life, and so humbled by the work ethic and hospitality that Mexicans bring with them wherever they are, be it in Santo Domingo or the Eastern Shore of Virginia.  Most people who work undocumented in the US come with the dream of buying a lot and building their own house in Mexico, and send money home regularly while relatives build their houses.  Most of them have never actually seen their houses.

    We pulled into Litzy's driveway, turned off the motor, and right as she was saying "welcome to my home" the turkeys wandering around the yard started gobbling like crazy, as if to emphasize her welcome.  It turns out those turkeys had been saved for our visit, they were going to fix them as mole negro and have a big family party, so we all had a laugh and said that the broken phone had saved the turkeys lives, for a little while at least...

    The family lived in an adobe home, and the parents did not speak Spanish, only Zapoteco, so their children had to interpret for them.  A few of the brothers had also worked in Virginia and remembered Erika, so they broke the ice by talking about people in the States, giving the update on who is doing what, and how big their children are now.  One of the brothers shimmied up a tall palm tree in the yard with his machete and lowered down several branches loaded with coconuts, which the father hacked until they were flat on the bottom and stuck straws in the tops for us to sip out the sweet, milky water.

    We didn't have very long to visit with them because the last truck out of town back to the highway was leaving in about an hour.  It was a shame because since Juana had told her family that Erika was going to come visit, they had planned many activities for us, big meals and trips in and around the mountains.  Juana`s family told Erika that even though they had never met her, they had been hearing about her for years... about how good she was and how much she had helped their family and friends in the US.  It served as a reaffirmation for Erika, and an intense inspiration for me.  There is no way to know how far-reaching the impact of our actions travel...    
     
    With hugs and heartfelt goodbyes, Litzy dropped us off with the same driver who brought us into town.  He was so excited that we had made our connection and had taken away a good impression of his town.  It was a poor place, but with a reception as warm as the one we'd had, how could we not have good feelings towards the people of Santo Domingo?  We bounced back along the dirt road that had carried us there hours earlier, this time heading into the sunset over the Pacific Ocean, viewed from above as we wound along the mountain road, the silouettes of the cacti and jamaica plants marked against the sunset sky.

    Back once again at the highway, we were slightly dismayed to find that the flock of taxis present on our ascent had disappeared, leaving us alone on an empty coastal highway.  We stood at the edge of the highway for what seemed an alarmingly long time during which not a single car drove by.  It was getting quite dark when a tourist bus was heading by and Benny flagged it down.  We gratefully climbed on board and rode the forty minutes back to the entrance of the road to his town, still a good twenty minute's drive from there.  Since Benny is also a former taxi driver, he was able to flag down a buddy driving by.  Apparently the taxi drivers there are ferociously territorial, so he could not pick us up in that town because the local drivers would cause him problems.  This prompted us to sprint down the dirt road in the dark, where his buddy was waiting for us around a corner in the taxi.  As we breathlessly jumped in, the song "Bad boys, bad boys, whatcha gonna do" was blasting on the stereo.  With such an ambiance, Erika and I could not help but feel that we had just done something rebellious and zealously danced and sang in the back of the cab.

    Safely home, we went next door to visit Raquel and her children, who runs the neighborhood convenience store.  Raquel is a beautiful woman with the most captivating smile, and she was so interested to hear how our adventure to the Indian village had gone.  She and her husband pulled up plastic chairs for us in the dirt area in front of the store to chat as she beat an octopus with a stone to tenderize it for their supper.  Claire had been kind enough to buy some children's books and colored pencils and paper for Raquel's two daugthers, and they were excitedly flipping through the books and drawing pictures for us.  Benny got out his guitar because Erika wanted to play a song for Raquel before we left, since she had heard us singing over the wall the night before and commented on how nice it sounded.  Her face positively lit up as Erika`s heavenly voice filled the night air and her oldest daughter, Andrea, drew us a lovely picture of a guitar with her new set of pencils.

    Hungry from our long day of adventures, we wandered down barefoot to the only restaurant in town open after 8:30, an Italian restaurant with latern-lit tables in the sand on the beach.  After enjoying a Hawaiian/Mexican pizza, we wandered down the moonlit beach back to the hotel, soaking in for one last time the grandeur of the setting we were so fortunate to be in.  As we walked past the waves crashing on the rocky island with the little white chapel that is the fishermen's shrine, the real fishermen were pushing their launches off the beach, as they fish for tuna at night.  The lights of their boats shone far across the sea, a metaphorical reminder of the impact we can have when we let our light shine.

Wednesday, 10 December 2008

  • Wild Flowers Don´t Care Where They Grow

    Remember how timeless childhood summers were?  I spent many days barefoot in the garden, catching bumblebees with my best friend, Malia, or making up songs on the swingset, building forest forts at Adam's Hill, or reading the entire Goosebumps series in the big tree in our front yard.  The only pressure I felt was to get to the pool before noon so my friends and I would have a beach chair on which to throw our towels.  That's how I feel today, overlooking the blue Pacific waves, barefoot and sunkissed, cleansed of all unnecessary worries and responsibilities and overflowing with the blissful combination of the peace and curiosity of childhood.  Erika, Nicole, Claire and I have dubbed ourselves the Wildflowers, after the Dolly Parton song we sing every night.  We've been uprooted from everyday life and have blossomed here together.

    We have met so many people who have unintentionally nuzzled their way into my heart and, through their free spirits and fearlessness, have reminded me that life is short and the time we are given is meant to be enjoyed.  For example, the 40 year old software designer from Chicago who left his job to become culturally submersed for 3 months with his wife and 2 young daughters on the coast of Oaxaca or Trisha from England, who was so unhappy with her job that she decided to volunteer in Mexico for 6 months to get her life back in line, or Michael from England who worked for the Obama campaign in New Mexico before exploring South and Central America, and Yuki, our dear friend who's been traveling the world on her own for 18 months.  Then there's Tim from Austrailia who works for human rights labor unions, and our 3 new friends from Spain, who have been inseperable travel companions since they were 16 years old, and our fellow beach-goers from Quebec who spent 6 months in California growing medical marijuana, and the cute Bohemian brother and sister from Mexico City who hitchhiked across the country with their dog, Chiva, selling handcrafted jewelry, and Oliver, a musician from Germany, or my new best friend, Chris, from Florida, who, after being shot at gunpoint, decided to learn Spanish and celebrate his 30th birthday on the beach in Mexico and who recently landed himself a teaching job in Veracruz.  Then there's the lady I met in the airport, who raises money to send medical supplies to Guatemala in her spare time, and Jesse from New York, our adopted travel companion and partner in crime, and Bernardino, whose love story touches close to home, not to mention all my friends from language schools... 

    The opportunity to travel is priceless.  It adds years to your life, uplifts the spirit, invigorates the senses and opens doors to unknown worlds.  However, I think we all have the potential to see the world and interact with its components the way travelers do.  It just takes a little more effort to see the beauty in every day life, but I promise you, it is there.  Life yearns to be explored and appreciated.

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kari_metz

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    • Name: Kari
    • Birthday: 12/23/1985
    • Gender: Female
    • Member Since: 6/2/2006

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Chatboard (3)

  • sgwaltney
    Keep the writings coming. I so love reading about your adventures. I can't wait until you are home so that we can talk instead of having to read. I miss you so much. I love you!!!!
  • kari_metz
    @BrookeDarcy34 - Hahahaha! Brooke Darcy! The woman with the rock!!! Yes...thus far travels have been flawless and I´m livin´ la pura vida!!! Love you mucho!
  • BrookeDarcy34
    Hellllo lover! Hope you landed safe and sound in MEXICO!!!! AHHHHH! I cant believe you are there! I am so proud of you! I wish you the best adventure ever!